Cud w indyjskiej Agrze na miarę drugiego Taj Mahal
Agra, niegdysiejsze centrum mogolskiego świata, potężna stolica imperium Akbara, Dżahangira i Szahdżahana. Po dziś dzień dumnie szczycąca się faktem zlokalizowania na swoim terenie ponoć najdoskonalszego pomnika ludzkiej miłości - Taj Mahal.
Taj Mahal, Agra
fot. Krzysztof Stępień
, © transazja
Nigdy nie byłem fanem tego miejsca. Zobaczyć raz w życiu Taj Mahal bez wątpienia warto, ale oglądanie go po raz ...nasty zakrawa na formę dewiacji. Kolejne wizyty w Agrze traktowałem jako zło konieczne. W zasadzie w Agrze przeszkadzało mi wszystko. Od utrudnień przy wejściu do samej budowli, przez natarczywych sprzedawców i ryksiarzy po koszmarnie brudną i śmierdzącą dzielnicę Taj Ganj - bezpośrednio otaczającą "pomnik miłości".
Z rozbawieniem wspominam jak parę lat temu jedna z osób, które przywiozłem na brudny parking w Taj Ganj, przed południową bramą Taj Mahal z ogromnym wyrzutem i złością rzekła "przecież mieliśmy pojechać bezpośrednio do Taj Mahal...". Biedna kobiecina nie miała świadomości, że tuż za murem znajduje się ponoć najdoskonalszy pomnik ludzkiej miłości.
Parę dni temu po raz kolejny odwiedziłem Agrę. Tym razem nie mogłem uwierzyć w to co widziałem. Zdarzyło się niemożliwe, coś co w Indiach nie miało prawa się wydarzyć, a skalą i rozmachem dorównywało przynajmniej zbudowaniu kolejnego Taj Mahalu... Otóż wysprzątano całe miasto! Agra jest czyta i estetyczna!
Taj Mahal, Agra
fot. Krzysztof Stępień
, © transazja
Trudno było znaleźć zalegające na ulicach śmieci, kanały i rynsztoki przestały być skupiskiem cuchnących odpadków, a nieliczne parki, klomby i wyspy zieleni zupełnie jakby odżyły i nabrały bardziej zielonego odcienia. Co ważne - nie dotyczy to tylko dzielnicy Taj Ganj, ale w zasadzie całej Agry. Już wychodząc z dworca Agra Cantonment dostrzegłem że jest jakoś inaczej. Przez myśl mi jednak nie przeszło, że to zwiastun tak poważnych zmian. Później jadąc rikszą przez szerokie bulwary dzielnicy wojskowej, prowadzące do centrum miasta, zastanawiałem się jaka to wielka akcja wymiotła śmieci z ulic. Swoją radość powstrzymywałem przeświadczeniem, że gdy tylko dojedziemy do dzielnicy Taj Ganj wszystko wróci do indyjskiej normy. Jednak - na szczęście - pomyliłem się i w okolicy bezpośrednio otaczającej Taj Mahal również próżno było szukać śmieci. Agra została wysprzątana, co dowodzi, że nawet w Indiach takie zabiegi - jakkolwiek egzotyczne - są możliwe.
Nie byłbym sobą gdybym nie zaczął drążyć tematu rozpytując wszystkich dookoła o przyczyny takiego stanu rzeczy. Wszyscy moi rozmówcy, od kierowców riksz, przez przewodników na sklepikarzach skończywszy powtarzali niemal jak mantrę jeden wyraz: BJP - Bharatiya Janata Party (Indyjska Partia Ludowa - przy. red. ). Obecny stan to ponoć namacalny efekt ostatnich wyborów parlamentarnych i zmiany warty na politycznej scenie Indii. Indyjska Partia Kongresowa musiała uznać swoją porażkę i przekazać ster władzy swojemu odwiecznemu rywalowi. Ten z kolei uznał, że miasto Taj Mahalu jest wizerunkową porażką całego kraju i ponoć władze centralne nakazały natychmiastowe wysprzątanie Agry.
Taj Mahal, Agra
fot. Krzysztof Stępień
, © transazja
Czy tak było naprawdę - nie jestem zupełnie o tym przekonany. Będąc już w Polsce zacząłem szukać informacji na ten temat i efektem tych poszukiwań było natrafienie na zupełnie oddolne działania mieszkańców dążących do zwiększenia atrakcyjności turystycznej miasta, a tym samym zwiększenie wpływów z turystyki. Mieli oni ponoć za pośrednictwem mediów społecznościowych organizować się w grupy i każdego niedzielnego poranka, uzbrojeni we własne worki na śmieci, łopaty oraz rękawice sprzątać wyznaczone rejony miasta.
W zasadzie nie jest istotne na jakim szczeblu zapadła ta wiekopomna decyzja. Ważne jest, że przybywający do Agry - przynajmniej na razie - nie muszą zastanawiać się dlaczego wpadli na taki dziwaczny pomysł i dlaczego zanim dotrą do bramy Taj Mahal muszą przedzierać się przez sterty śmieci i gnijących odpadków.
Temat wydaje się faktycznie ważny i przełomowy. Niech zaświadczy o tym zdanie wypowiedziane przez mojego dobrego znajomego, właściciela hotelu w Delhi. Gdy komplementowałem to co widziałem (lub w zasadzie czego nie widziałem) w Agrze odparł: „Dziękuję przyjacielu, dzięki twoim słowom jestem jeszcze bardziej dumnym obywatelem Indii”.
Życzę mieszkańcom Agry jak najlepiej. Pragnąłbym za każdym razem widzieć okolicę Taj Mahal w takim stanie w jakim było mi dane oglądać ją parę dni temu. Nurtuje mnie jednak zdanie wypowiedziane z pełnym przekonaniem przez innego mojego dobrego znajomego. Oznajmił on że partia BJP ma dokładne plany zagospodarowania terenów okalających Taj Mahal. Jego zdaniem partia zamierza wyburzyć całą okolicę, zasiać trawę i wmówić całemu światu że okolica najdoskonalszego pomnika ludzkiej miłości zawsze tak wyglądała. Miał on oczywiście na myśli całą dzielnicę Taj Ganj, od dawien dawna okrytą kontrowersyjną sławą taniej ostoi turystów z plecakami. Czy takie słowa były tylko pobożnym życzeniem mojego znajomego, czy też może faktycznie forsowanym planem zagospodarowania przestrzennego trudno powiedzieć. Czas pokaże jakie będą dalsze losy Agry, ale perspektywa wyburzenia całej dzielnicy z całą pewnością nie przebiegłaby ani łatwo ani tym bardziej spokojnie. Z kolei przyjazd do Taj Mahal w takiej sytuacji byłby jeszcze większym przeżyciem niż próba zakwaterowania się w Delhijskim Paharganj w czasie siłowej „przebudowy” okolicy w 2010 roku.
Praktyczne informacje dotyczące zwiedzania Taj Mahal
Zdobienia Taj Mahal
fot. Krzysztof Stępień
, © transazja
Większość pociągów z Delhi przyjeżdża na dość odległą stację Agra Cantt. Dokładnie na przeciw wyjścia ze stacji znajduje się budka pre-paid taxi. Można tam opłacić nie tylko taksówkę ale też i tuk-tuki. Jest to całkiem wygodne rozwiązanie, bo w oknie wywieszony jest czytelny cennik przejazdów. Problem jest tylko w tym, aby dostać się do tej budki... Ceny są dość mocno zawyżone jak na warunki Indii, ale łapanie tuk-tuka nieco dalej od stacji będzie cenowo bardzo podobne - wszak to miasto Taj Mahalu.
Całkiem niezłym rozwiązaniem jest wynajęcie taxi lub tuk-tuka na godziny (jest taka opcja w wywieszonym cenniku). Wynajęcie pojazdu nie uwzględnia ewentualnych opłat za parking pod obiektami (co też jest napisane na tablicy). Warto wiedzieć, że udając się do Taj Mahal z wynajętym kierowcą należy kazać mu jechać na parking pod Bramą Południową. To jest jedyny parking pod Taj Mahal, który nie ma opłat za parkowanie.
Do Taj Mahal prowadzą 3 bramy: zachodnia, południowa i wschodnia. Przy każdej z nich znajduje się kasa biletowa i przechowalnia bagaży. Tylko przy kasie obok bramy zachodniej znajduje się kasa dla obcokrajowców. Nie różni się ona niczym od innych ale można faktycznie szybciej nabyć bilety.
Zdobienia Taj Mahal
fot. Krzysztof Stępień
, © transazja
Brama zachodnia jest zawsze najbardziej oblegana i tam stoi się w najdłuższych kolejkach do wejścia. Warto od razu kierować się do bramy południowej. Po pierwsze jest blisko darmowego parkingu (co jest ważne dla tych na których czeka kierowca z pojazdem) a po drugie kasa biletowa znajduje się tuż obok przechowalni bagażu. Jest to o tyle istotne, że gdy na bramce ochrony coś zostanie u nas zakwestionowane to jesteśmy odsyłani do przechowalni i od początku stajemy w długiej kolejce. Przechowalnia bagażu przy bramie zachodniej jest oddalona o dobre 100m od bramki ochrony.
Wejście na teren Taj Mahal jest bardzo restrykcyjne. Ochrona na bramkach jest bardzo skrupulatna i mało przyjazna. Najlepszym rozwiązaniem byłoby wejść w samej bieliźnie z aparatem foto w ręku. Nie ma szans na wniesienie do środka: papierosów, zapalniczek, zapałek, wszelkich butelek (w tym z wodą i innymi napojami), drobnych przekąsek, ciastek czy słodyczy (uwaga diabetycy), gum do żucia, ostrych narzędzi, dużych toreb bez względu na ich zawartość, statywów fotograficznych, latarek, kupionych pamiątek (nawet tych kupionych w okolicznych sklepach) czy nawet dziecięcych zabawek lub książkowych krzyżówek (istne kuriozum, ale testowane w praktyce). Wszystko co nie spodoba się ochronie albo ląduje w koszu albo musimy to odnieść do bezpłatnej przechowalni.
W ramach biletu wstępu, zagraniczni turyści (czyli wszyscy ci którzy zapłacili bilet w cenie 750 INR) dostają dodatkowo butelkę wody (autoryzowanej) oraz folię na buty (na samej platformie Taj Mahal chodzi się bez butów).
Zdobienia Taj Mahal
fot. Krzysztof Stępień
, © transazja
Po prawej i lewej stronie Mauzoleum stoją dwie budowle z czerwonego piaskowca przypominające meczety. Tylko ten po lewej stronie jest meczetem i podlega zasadom typowym dla zwiedzania meczetu. Wprawdzie turyści dostają foliowe ochraniacze na buty ale i tak wchodząc do środka meczetu bezwzględnie należy zdjąć obuwie. W przeciwnym razie skończy się to głośną awanturą.
Na teren Taj Mahal nie można wnieść (bez wcześniejszego pozwolenia) statywów fotograficznych. Niejasne jest prawo dotyczące amatorskiego filmowania. Na bramkach ochrony nikt nie robi problemów przy wnoszeniu amatorskiej kamery video, jednak w środkowej bramie (skąd rozpościera się klasyczny widok na Taj Mahal) znajduje się wielki napis "tylko do tego miejsca można korzystać z kamer video". Obok znajduje się przechowalnia kamer. Wynika z tego, że robienie filmów w głębi kompleksu jest zabronione. Inna sprawa to fakt, że ilekroć uda się przemycić kamerę przez ten punk to dalej nikt już problemów nie robi przy filmowaniu. Przepis oczywiście nie uwzględnia aparatów foto z opcją video...
Planując tego samego dnia wizytę w Agra Fort należy w tamtejszej kasie okazać bilet wstępu do Taj Mahal (z tego samego dnia). W ten sposób dostaniemy 50 rupii rabatu i zamiast 300 zapłacimy 250 rupii za bilet.
Miłego zwiedzania...
Latasz samolotami? Chcesz dowiedzieć się ile godzin spędziłeś łącznie w powietrzu? Jaki pokonałeś dystans i ile razy okrążyłeś równik? Do jakich krajów latałeś i jakimi samolotami...? Zobacz nową funkcjonalność transAzja.pl: Mapa Podróży
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